Saturday, 16 April 2011

Verification

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To Be replaced soon.

Tuesday, 12 April 2011

The Hot Pepper

The Hot Pepper has also everything to do with Hot Peppers whether it be from the seed to your table it has everything along the way, A more active forum its a must to check out if your growing chillies.

Site Front - The Hot Pepper <-- Site front
Growing Peppers - The Hot Pepper <-- Index of forum for this site
Growing Tech - The Hot Pepper <-- Planning to use grow lights or hydro?

** SITE CONTENT **  Soil For Growing Chilli <-- Rundown of soil ( very detailed ) with mixes
All good potting mixes should: 

1) Provide water and air.

***** Potting mixes are made of both solid particles and the open spaces (pores) between them. Large pores are filled with air and small pores hold water.* A good potting mix should have a balance of both solid particles and large and small pore space. Potting mixes with too many large pores require frequent watering, but those with too many small pores are too heavy and can promote disease. It is important to handle a potting mix carefully once it is made to avoid compacting it and losing the air spaces.

2) Retain fertilizer.

***** Potting mixes made mostly from sand will have little ability to hold plant food, while mixes formed from lots of peat moss or compost will hold plant food well. The pH of the mix also affects nutrient availability. Peat moss, which is the most commonly used ingredient in potting mixes, is very acidic (low pH). Dolomitic limestone is often added to adjust the pH and bring it closer to neutral. Compost and sand are usually neutral (depending on what they are made from) and may require less limestone when they are used in potting mixes.

3) Support the plant.

4) Be of consistent quality.

** SITE CONTENT **  Soil For Growing Chilli <-- Rundown of soil ( very detailed ) with mixes

** SITE CONTENT ** Experiment with Chilli <-- Stress experiment on jalapeƱos ( half way down the page)

Here is both of the twins strapped down
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Those pics were taken yesterday, here are some from today showing what the plants do as a reaction and how you continue on with them.
Notice how the new growth tips turn upward towards the sun.
Posted Image

** SITE CONTENT ** Experiment with Chilli <-- Stress experiment on jalapeƱos ( half way down the page)




Garden Web ~ Got Questions?

Garden Web Hot Pepper Forum <-- Index for hot pepper forum ~ Remember to use the search bar !
Gonna place some examples down here.

EXAMPLE ONE  Original Post <-- Click Here to View.

I'm having the worst time getting my bhut jolokias to germinate. I received my seed from NMSU so I know they're actual jolokia's and of good stock. Here's my problem...First 20 seeds--Planted in peat moss in a greenhouse. Stayed too wet-nothing sprouted.
Next 20 seeds-Planted in MG Orchid Mix soil, non greenhouse, 3" pots covered in aluminum-I think it dried out too much. Nothing has sprouted.
As you can see I went from one extreme to the other (due to research I found peat soil was a no no with these guys) so I decided to go with MG Orchid Mix from which I read does very well. Also I read that you need to keep the soil moderately moist but not soggy. I was pretty much letting these suckers dry out with every other day watering.
Since the Orchid Mix drains so fast I think I wasn't letting my seeds get wet enough. I soaked the soil the first day, then every second day would only get the top wet because I was afraid of overwatering. I think since I let the top dry out so much I killed them this way!!!
When it says "water your seeds" and you're using a high draining soil do you give them a good dousing or just a little bit of water? I would literally take a spray bottle (typical windex type bottle I got from the feed store. NO chemicals have been in it) and spray the soil 2 or 3 times and move on. I'm thinking I should be using more.
Specs-
3" peat pots
Miracle Gro Orchid Mix for soil
Seeds planted 1/4"
Pots are covered in aluminum and set in aluminum trays. Bottom heat provided with mat
Light provided with 6500k blue light spectrum fluorescent (I know seeds don't need light, just kept them on a timer so when the first sprouts do come up I don't have to do anything).
Did not presoak seeds
Growing inside. 85 degrees day time 70-75 degrees night.
As you can see my setup is pretty generic and follows most of the guidelines for what hot peppers need. I know that I rambled, I just wanted to make sure I had all my info out there so the pepper gods could aid me to the best of their abilities.
1. WTF-OMG-BBQ-UFO-NFL SUNDAY WHY DIDN'T ANYTHING SPROUT
2. Should I use more water?
3. Could I technically dig these up, soak them, and replant with any sort of success, or are all the seeds most likely dead? They've been in dry soil for the last month so I doubt they're rotted, and have not been in direct contact with light.
4. Should I just buy some more, pre-soak, and stop being such a baby and water these suckers while they're seeds.
Thanks!!!!

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 A. Here is my 2 cents. I am not an expert by any means. But, I think letting the seeds dry out was not good. Moist is good, soaked is bad and dry is worse. Second, it doesnt sound like you had any kind of cover over them. You should have some kind of cover to keep in the moisture. They should not dry out completely in one day and the cover will keep them moist and humid and hold in heat which is great for germination. You can use one of those multi compartmented mini green houses but if you want to skimp on money, that is fine, just use cups of some sort and put plastic cling wrap over them. Or use one of the other ingenious contraptions people use. Then, I think the peat is a problem too. Many caution against the use of it. Others seem to have good luck. I used MG Orchid Mix and had great results. My first three seeds I ever planted, I did in a cup with a lid and all three came up in about 10 days. Then, you have temp. I would go for leaving them at room temp for about 14 hours and then boost them up to about 80-85 for about 10 hours. You dont have to use a heat mat but that makes it easy. Just check the temp with a thermometer of some type. Those mats can go haywire sometimes. I actually put mine in the oven for 10 hours a day. It has a pilot light and if I kept the door open just enough, it kept a good 80-85 inside. I had a thermometer right beside the plants and checked it often until I was sure it wasn't fluctuating. I had to put a sign on it so my wife wouldn't fire it up to preheat it for cooking....ahhahhahaha. Then, one other pitfall that I can see is how deep you planted them. When I planted my first three test plants, I planted them one eighth inch deep. They all came up in 9 or 10 days. When I planted my mass planting, I planted them a bit deeper at about one quarter inch and had about 80% for all my peppers and a little less for the Bhuts so I will be planting more like one eight inch from now on.


A. I am growing the Bhut Jolokia and germinated a few seeds from my dried pods from last season. My first set I germinated using orchid mix MG in small pots and went to the grocery store and bought a cheap throw away casserole dish you know the aluminum foil dish with the plastic lid works like a mini green house on the cheap. Placed next to a heat vent about a foot away about 80% germination. 2 weeks later germinated my second set using an egg carton the paper kind and cut the top and lined with foil to use as a water run off filled one side with organic potting soil and the other with orchid mix watered then covered with saranwrap left for one week covered no need to water during that week since it keeps moisture in, put under the same grow light I am using once my first set sprouted, then I removed the saranwrap let the soil dry then water as needed. I usually pour water from a cup that I let sit for a few hours allows chlorine to evaporate or so I'm told, until I just soke the top of the soil. Key is not to baby or over care for them they are seeds they want to grow and will. So let the soil dry give a little water let dry give a little more and you should be fine and make sure the mix you use allows for good draining so the plants don't drown in a soggy pot. Keep us posted on how you do and if any of our advice works for you.


EXAMPLE TWO  Original Post <-- Click Here to view.


I looked in the archives for an answer to this question, but i didn't find a thread that specifically addressed transplanting to containers.
I'm planting most of my peppers in containers this year, using a soilless, pine bark fines-based, mix. i've had several varieties growing under my T5 indoors, but i'm really anxious to pot them in their final containers (3 gal.). the seeedlings im planning on transplanting have at least two sets of real leaves and are about 2 in. tall. They're currently in half dixie cups...
When is it okay to transplant? im trying to avoid repotting twice...

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A. I can tell you that I planted 3 seeds per growing pod and instead of thining out I actually separated them and repotted some did not have the first set of true leaves yet and some had just the first set of true leaves. Now most have first set of leaves and some are starting their second set. I also over wintered 2 of my bhut plants and repotted in Feb 2011 which are the parent plants to my seedlings.

A. My rule of thumb is to transplant seedlings when they have between 3 and 5 sets of true leaves.
Since you're transplanting them in their final home, you might want to wait until they're about
6 inches tall, or so. By the way, I think you'll be pleased with the bark-based mix!

Garden Web Hot Pepper Forum <-- Index for hot pepper forum ~ Remember to use the search bar !
Gonna place some examples down here.






Thirsty? Dehydrated Chilli Tree Method

** THE INFORMATION BELOW IS TAKEN FROM ANOTHER WEBSITE** Growing Chillies <-- Click Here to go to the site.
Chili Plants are like people they will grow weak if not given enough of the basic necessities such as sun, water, air and nutrients. The tell tale signs of a sick looking chilli plant is when it starts to wilt. When your chili plant starts to wilt you must act fast to revive the suffering plant.
Chili plants in pots and particularly prone to dehydration and wilting. When you do not water your potted chillie plants enough, the soil tends to harden and clings closer to the roots and away from the pot’s sides. This creates gaps in which water can run off and out of the pot through the drainage holes, effectively starving the roots of your potted chillie plants.

First aid for sick Chili Plants

1. Fill a bucket, sink, container or basin halfway with water. Make sure the container is large enough to fit the entire pot, all the way to and over the rim.
2. Plunge the whole pot and plant into the water filled container. The water must cover the whole plant even over the pots rim. It’s all right if water covers some of the foliage. You may need to weigh down the pot with a brick or a stone to keep it from floating in the water.
3. Keep the plant in the container until bubbles stop rising from the soil. Bubbles indicate air pockets in soil and roots.
4. Keep the plant in the water for at least a half hour after the bubbles stop, to ensure that the soil is completely saturated.
5. Remove the pot from the container and allow the plant to drain.
6. Place the potted plant in a plastic bag and close it tightly. This step will provide much needed humidity to the foliage while the roots go back into action. Keep the bagged plant in a shady area so that the moisture doesn’t dry out.
7. Remove the plant from the bag and move it back to its original location once it has revived. This could take as little as a few hours, or several days. Do not put the plant back into the sun till its looks healthy and green again as the sun will extract water from the plant.
8. Give the post some mulch that will hold moisture and humidity. Remember to water your growing chillie plants regularly. Once a day is ideal.

Other Tips for Dehydrated Chili Plants

- Any brown leaves or stems will been to be cut off, they are dead and we cannot save them.
- Plants in the ground or in pots too big to shift can be treated by pushing the hose as far into the soil around the roots as possible so that it can soak the roots and eliminate any air pockets or dry root balls.
- Moisten the leaves when watering as it increases humidity around the plants leaves keeping them moist and reducing dehydration.

** THE INFORMATION BELOW IS TAKEN FROM ANOTHER WEBSITE** Growing Chillies <-- Click Here to go to the site.

The Hottest Pepper

This site runs a store to purchase seeds and dried peppers as well as a blog and some really useful tips with information, another cool note the image gallery.

 ** FROM SITE INFORMATION ** The Hottest Pepper  <-- Click here to see the rest of the information and check out the site.


SPECIAL BHUT JOLOKIA TIPS

  • Please read the how to start your seeds provided very carefully and closely follow the directions.
  • Bhut Jolokia requires soil temperatures to be between 75°F and 90°F for proper germination. You may need to supply bottom heat with the aid of a propagation mat.
  • Soil must be kept moderately moist, never being allowed to completely dry out and never allowed to become soggy. This will destroy the embryo in the seed and they will not germinate.
  • The Bhut Jolokia can take up to 35 days just to germinate. They also have a very long growing period, up to 160 days before harvest.
  • The Bhut Jolokia is extremely hard to grow and we want you to succeed, so keep the faith!
** FROM SITE INFORMATION ** The Hottest Pepper  <-- Click here to see the rest of the information and check out the site.


Please Stop Burning Little JoloKia


Some YouTube videos of people eating Bhut JoloKia, The third one (the boy) is a habanero so you could guess how hot the first two are :)

Hippy seed company

Need seeds? This site has em, he also does videos where he tries the chilies and comments on them.
Hippy Company seeds <-- Link to purchase seeds and various other chilli products.

** From site information - Using jiffy pellets ** Hippy Company seeds <-- Browse around for other little stuff and products


First the pellets need to be placed in a container. I use sturdy plastic trays. If children are  using the peat pellets, they might want to place them in an old muffin tray. That way, when the pellets expand, the sides of the muffin tray will hold the pellets upright, I lay the pellets flat so that they are grouped near each other with a bit of extra space for expansion.

There is a top and bottom to these pellets the bottom of the pellet is solid without any identifying marks.

Once the pellets are in place in a tray or pan, add water they use about 70mls each. Warm water makes the pellets expand faster. These pellets will drink a lot of water since they expand up to seven times in height as the pellets grow, you will see that an organic netting-like material holds the growing compound together. The small hole in the top of the now expanded pellet is where the seed is placed. Large seeds can be placed 6mm (¼ inch) below the soil surface, and smaller seeds nearer to the top of the soil. Just keep the pellets moist to encourage the seeds to grow.

Since these expanded pellets have air pockets, they are ideal for starting seeds or plant cuttings since there is plenty of room for downward root growth. Unlike peat pots, which have harder sides and bottoms, these pellets are spongy.

These Jiffy Pellets are not meant to indefinitely keep plants. The pellets, even when expanded, are small. They are designed to give seeds a start. Once the seeds are growing and big enough so that they need a different pot, the Jiffy Pellet can be inserted whole inside a larger plant pot. Just add soil to the bigger plant pot, place the Jiffy Pellet with its plant inside the pot, and add more soil around the plant. These Jiffy Pellets can also be planted outdoors in the garden. Since the plant does not have to be removed from this peat container, there is less likelihood of the plant developing root shock. The peat pellets are planted whole ... just dig a hole and plop the pellet (plant and all) into the hole and
                                                       surround the plant with soil.

** From site information - Using jiffy pellets ** Hippy Company seeds <-- Browse around for other little stuff and products